High standards are in order for the (not clearly marked on Balos' website!) $45 bottomless drink deal. The bellinis and mimosas have a respectably small tinge, and we appreciate the straight champagne option, but it's really the espresso martinis — six different options, freshly made at a cart wheeled over to your table — that salvage the price.

The $45 prix-fixe menu probably isn't worth your money unless you were planning on dessert, since the omelette and sandwich options (and considerable accompanying chips and fries) will fill you up for half the cost, albeit in rather oily fashion.

Balos felt almost overprepared for an ultimately mild brunch rush, but we reaped the benefits of that professional attention throughout, ordering some recommended appetizers off the dinner menu (the tower of zucchini chips is excellent, if questionably worth $32), and receiving a last-call opportunity before our 90 minutes expired.

The restaurant exudes a loungy feel — while not enforced for brunch, Balos' reservation system details an elaborate definition of their "upscale chic" dress code (long jeans are permitted as long as they are "worn sharply") — which translates a bit sleepily to a noon meal.