Agora's dedicated to turning over your table by the two-hour mark, which means mimosa service lasts for even less. This perhaps explains why straight champagne's an option if you don't want to bother with orange juice.

It was difficult to resist fresh servings from a roving bread guy, violating our pack-the-protein brunch adage, but the small plates approach means you can compensate with as many orders of sausage and turkey bacon as you want.

Even amid the general chaos of an all-you-can-eat situation, our server finagled nut-free versions of a variety of dishes and left no small plate undelivered.

The patio just isn't equipped for a summer DC afternoon, with fans that don't reach every (cramped) table and leave you with the faint scent of manure from the nearby alley. Sit inside.