The Commodore's very straightforward approach to brunch starts where it should, with a $21 bottomless option that leaves the champagne-to-orange juice (among other options!) ratio in the user's hands.

A classic "hangover burger" sums up the menu (and restaurant) pretty aptly — and not in a bad way — but if you're in the mood for something a little more focused, the pork belly shines in both the fried rice and sandwich versions. Just don't expect too many vegetables either way.

We had an early scare when our server said he didn't know if they were even offering a bottomless option anymore, but once that danger was resolved, things proceeded swimmingly and, importantly, without regard for either the stated 90-minute limit or the requirement that all participants order a brunch entree.

The Commodore doesn't open until noon, and since we were the only party until well past 1, "open" is more of an in-name-only descriptor. But sit yourself in any of the cozy upstairs nooks and enjoy feeling like you've snuck in.